The Flat Overhand, Not the EDK…October 18, 2016 fmg-adminGuiding Rock Climbing
There has been much controversy over the flat overhand knot, otherwise know as EDK (Euro Death Knot) for rappelling in the media lately. Much of the controversy has to do with the “rolling” of the knot, and most of the time it is actually the flat figure eight that everyone is talking about. I have recently even seen the flat figure eight called the other version of the EDK, and now there is an article called “A Better EDK.” These of course are published by well-known American climbing magazines.
So lets first get the names of the knots correct.
This is the Flat Overhand:
This is the Flat Figure Eight:
This is the EDK:
Notice there is no picture…
Because we should stop calling any knot a Euro Death Knot, but if you must, use that term to describe the flat figure eight knot.
This is the knot being referred to as a “A better EDK”:
It is really easy for me to give you instances of when and when not to use these knots for the weekend warrior climber.
Flat Figure 8 should be used, never.
“A better EDK,” never.
Use a flat overhand when rappelling.
Since we only should be using one of these knots, let’s talk about the properties of a properly tied Flat Overhand.
Pulled every strand to tighten.
Times we might choose to use a different knot or back up with a second overhand:
-Greatly differing diameters of rope.
-One really new rope and one really old rope.
-Any combination of the above.
Remember to put knots at the ends of your rope!
AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide