A Professional Guide’s Review: The Edelrid Giga Jul

March 11, 2025 forreststavishGear Reviews

“Have you felt the power?”

“What?” 

“The power of the Giga Jul?” my instructor said with a grin as we traded devices. I was on my American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) alpine guide course, and we’d just had a significant rockfall event happen. We were evacuating everyone off of the buttress, and it was my turn to rappel down towards safety. As I descended, my curiosity piqued as to why this funky looking device could be a better tool for almost all belay/rappel applications.

Fast forward to the present day. I’ve had a Giga Jul on my harness for years now, with enough mileage on it to provide an effective review.

What is the Giga Jul?

One of Edelrid’s solutions for a multi-functional Assisted Braking Device (ABD) is the Giga Jul. The geometry of the device is used to pinch the rope and quickly arrest a fall, increasing security but not complexity. This idea isn’t new; devices like the Mammut Smart, the Black Diamond Pilot, and Edelrid’s own Mega Jul all have a similar design. What sets the Giga Jul apart is the addition of a sliding spacer that gives better options to the end user.

Why is the Giga Jul Better?

Every belay device has shortfalls. The Pilot only has one rope aperture, the Mammut Smart is the size of a small country, and the Megajul has too many quirks. The slider on the Giga Jul allows me engage the ABD when I’m belaying a partner from below. At the top I can move the slider off of ABD mode to belay my follower(s) in classic plaquette mode. I can also rappel with it, as I would a standard ATC. One device does the work of three.

How I Use the Giga Jul

I work with many clients who haven’t belayed before, so I look for tools that are easy to use and easy to teach. I’ve found that guests who have no experience pick up lead belaying and lowering with the Giga Jul quickly and effectively. I can give this device to them for the day, whether we’re toproping or multipitch climbing. I usually avoid taking a belay that isn’t assisted, and the Giga Jul hits that goldilocks zone of balancing security with ease of use.

Specifications

Rope Compatibility – 7.1mm to 10mm
Weight – 4.3oz or 122g
Cost – $60

Final Word

The rope-bearing surfaces of the Giga Jul are made of stainless steel, so it will last longer than other rappel devices. The devices thin rope compatibility means I’m more likely to take it into the Alpine for lead belays on twin ropes. It’s important to pay attention that the slider is in the right position for the job it needs to perform. However, once you train with it for a few pitches it’s natural to integrate it into your preflight partner check. I’m stoked on the Giga Jul, and I think it’s about as close to a quiver-of-one tool as we’re going to find in 2025.