I like versatility. I love it when my gear can transition between many tasks and suit each one with ease. In fact, as a guide, I NEED my gear to be able to fill multiple roles. This single best piece of gear I have that fits this bill is the Deuter Speedlite 20. To iIlustrate just how versatile it is, consider how it performed as I got ready for a climbing trip to Las Vegas recently.
Saturday – Sunday: I spend my weekends guiding guests who have waited all week to get out into the mountains and enjoy a carefree day of rock climbing in Western North Carolina. Often this is a multi-pitch, day and I’m meeting my guests in the Linville Gorge. Our objective is Table Rock on Saturday and the remote Amphitheater on Sunday. I put my harness on with my “Guide’s Rack” on my waist. In my Speedlite, I have climbing shoes and a chalk bag, first aid kit, 2L water bladder, single rack of protection, and an extra layer or two. Inside the small, quick access pocket, I put in my lunch, snacks and headlamp. On the outside, using the compression straps, I secure my helmet neatly on the outside. This pack goes from a full 20+L and compresses to less than 10 once the rack is on and we are moving over rock terrain! It is very comfortable no matter the load and stays secure and ergonomic when climbing. I sometimes even forget I have it on!
Monday: After a long weekend of work, I like to escape into the mountains around Pisgah National Forest by myself for some running. I often extend these runs for more than 10 miles, and I like to carry some extra items with me, so it is again time to fill the Speedlite. I carry my 1L water bladder, a long layer, sun hat, headlamp, spare map+compass, small first aid kit, as well as lunch and/or snacks. Given how the many straps on the Speedlite can be tucked neatly away and the compressability of the pack, I don’t notice it as I move over rough trails. My back may become a bit sweaty, but that may just be my fault for carrying so many things on a run. Perhaps this is why I’m much more of a climber! {Editor’s note: You can wash a Speedlite in a washing machine on warm and air dry it. I’ve done it more that 20 times with no damage to the pack.}
Tuesday: I head to the climbing gym to hang out with fellow guides and climbers and get a good workout in before my trip to Las Vegas. In my Speedlite, I carry a short gym rope, harness, shoes, chalk bag, belay device and water. It is sometimes nice to load it up with weights or water to help me train! This can really beat up a bag, but I have yet to tear any holes in it with the rough cargo.
Wednesday: Heading to a coffee shop downtown to relax, reflect, and write is a day we don’t typically associate with fancy backpacks, but I indeed use my Speedlite as my computer and town bag. Its size is perfect for my laptop, and it’s nice to stroll around 
Asheville with all of my office things with me. I will always have my thermos with me in one of the side pockets carrying that great dark roast from down the street.
Thursday: It’s winter here in the mountains and that means it’s time for some winter sports. Lately I have been honing my ski abilities at some of the local resorts. It isn’t exactly backcountry, but it is nice to carry extra things with me on the mountain so I don’t have to go back and forth from the lodge every time I want something. When I need to, this pack’s burly construction even allows me to carry my skies for short ski mountaineering jaunts. The pack definitely handles my falls better than I do at times!
Friday: Time to pack! Planes can sometimes be a nightmare for climbers as we love to try to cram what we can into carry-ons so as not to pay that checked bag fee. The Speedlite works great as a carry-on and I can fit pretty much everything from a guiding day in it and put most everything else I need for a couple of days into my second carry-on. The Speedlite’s compact size fits perfectly under the seat. When I arrive, I get everything to my hotel or campsite and head to the grocery store for some supplies and use my Speedlite as a reusable bag! Fits three days worth of food for two people very well!
Saturday: Time to climb! The goal is Epinephrine, a 600+M route in Black Velvet Canyon with several, pack-shredding chimney pitches. A route like this requires light packing, and I again load up my Speedlite with the essentials the night before and pack it in to the base. As the day gets warmer and we go in and out of the sun, the pack gets larger and smaller as items go in and out. Again, I sometimes forget I am wearing it! That is, until we reach the chimney pitches. With the pack dangling from my harness’s belay loop, I make my way up the chimney as the Speedlite scrapes and bangs into the rock. I tuck away as many of the buckles and zippers as I can and make sure the pack is compressed. By the time we are beyond the chimney pitches, the pack is no worse for the wear, spare a couple of dirty spots and we are halfway to the summit! Once on top, my body is prepping for the long descent back to the car, so everything comes off and goes back into the pack. With the ergonomic back design, even when full, my sore back barely notices the added bulk as we drag ourselves back to the car, fulfilled from another great adventure, and we prepare to do the week over again the next day, this time in Sin City!
Here’s to adventure!
Cody Bradford, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor and Assistant Rock Guide
Trad climbing is gear intensive, requires a higher level of technical skill, and is a more thoughtful type of climbing. These places are rich with climbing history, can feel more adventurous, bold, and at times (especially on slabs, or here in North Carolina) downright scary. I recommend getting guidebooks because they are a great source for this information. They can be expensive, but they make a great souvenir, and help avoid unnecessary epics. I’ve learned that the hard way.
Personal equipment: There is a lot of room to create your own style in this category! Experiment with different brands, and find what you like most! Here is the equipment I wear:
Harness: We spend a ton of time in these, sometimes hanging. Some stores may have something to hang from to try a new harness out. Don’t be afraid to get creative with adding weight on the gear loops either! Make sure you find one that works well for you. I personally like having adjustable leg loops since my thighs don’t match the size of my waist. I am currently wearing a Petzl Hirundos. (That’s how I know I prefer adjustable leg loops)
Standard Rack: In guidebooks you may often see the term “single rack.” That refers to bringing one of each size in the standard camming range (.3-3), some stoppers, and draws. Some routes can call for more specific gear like doubles, big cams (4-6), small cams (.1-.2), extra wires (stoppers), or long slings. A good rack is made up of an assortment of both passive and active gear. I include stoppers, tri-cams, cams, draws, and anchor material.
Draws: Typically when I go out climbing I bring around 10 draws. This is usually a combination of quick draws, and alpine draws. These can also be known as extendables, runners, or slings. I may not always carry this many on me while climbing, but it allows me to decide what I need for a given route. Extendables are a great way to help manage rope drag on wandering pitches. Be aware though that each time you extend a draw you are also increasing the distance of a potential lead fall.
I hope I have been able to help spare some unnecessary purchases, and add insight to what might help you out for a day of cragging. Start with the personal basics, and learn using other people’s gear to find what you like. Remember, you don’t have to go out and buy a whole rack all at once! If you have any questions feel free to shoot me an email at 
No, think not. I’m the real deal. I’ve been training Elves with the SPG-E2 for two amazing years! The South Pole Group – Entry and Escape, specialized in contained structures and escape. SPG-E2 deals with all the housing units that don’t have chimney access or common access, such as hotels; apartment buildings; condominiums; and airports. They also specialize in escapes.
And this year I was lucky enough to be asked to return to Chimney Rock State Park to accompany Santa himself in a rappelling exercise to build Christmas spirit and practice Chimney entry with Santa!
What changed? Arguably, it would seem that there are greater risks at foot here, so why not implement a more robust system like we do when we go top roping at the local crag or pitch it out as we have for the last 1,000ft? Are you with a trained and/or certified guide? This is a tool common among guides in this scenario and is not one usually learned or practiced by someone who mainly climbs recreationally. I may trust someone who has at least taken a course a bit more, but one must be aware this is a guiding technique requiring a lot of experience and a high degree of consideration. Second, if you pitch out 600ft of exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain all the time on a 2,000ft+ route, you are looking at a long day and possibly night out.
Meaning that there simply cannot be hard and fast rules in such a dynamic activity. While we can live comfortably abiding by specifics in a given context (sport climbing, for example) they will not always transfer when we mix the bag and go try something as nebulous as alpine rock climbing. We must adapt and use the right tool for the job.
Ultimately, many of us feel that part of the allure of climbing is the freedom. We are responsible for our own decisions and must solve the kinesthetic math problem with the ultimate solution being safe and efficient success. You’re the boss of your own world, and that is truly rewarding. It then seems counterintuitive to shackle ourselves to steadfast rules when simply carrying principles with us to each new experience can open us up to greater rewards.
