Rock Climbing 402 – Rock Climbing Self Rescue

Rock Climbing 402 – Rock Climbing Self Rescue

Date: October 26 - October 27, 2024

Course Category: Rock Climbing 402-Rock Climbing Self Rescue    

Location: North Carolina

Instructor: Forrest Stavish

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The Rock Climbing Self Rescue Course teaches skills every climber who ties into a rope should know: basic competency in risk management, problem avoidance, and self rescue skills. This course emphasizes reducing the risks in the first place to reduce the chance of ever having to use the rescue skills you will learn in the course.

We will teach you the most efficient systems and won’t flood you with over-complicated, useless systems. All these skills are useful in everyday climbing, and it’s amazing how much speed and efficiency is gained from having these skills “dialed.” Self rescue is a topic that all climbers should be skilled in for themselves and the people they climb with.

Topics Covered:

Day One

  • Planning, preparation, equipment, and communication
  • Problem avoidance: reducing the risks in the first place
  • Basic rescue knots, hitches, and tie offs
  • Load transfers, the building blocks for all rope rescue techniques
  • Raising systems 101: a detailed look at the basic physics behind raising systems, mechanical advantage raises, and assisted raises (2:1, 3:1, 3:1 assisted, 5:1, and 6:1)
  • Rescuing and assisting the second: raises, lowers and counterbalanced lowers
  • Ascending a fixed and counterbalanced rope
  • Correct techniques for using plaquette devices in climbing and self rescue applications (ATC Guide/Reverso)

Day Two

  • Rescuing the injured leader in the single and multi-pitch environment
  • Weighted transitions (rappelling multiple pitches with an unconscious climber)
  • Counterbalanced and tandem rappels
  • Effective knot passes on rappels and lowers

Course Prerequisites:

Applicants must have the following experience:

  • Can top rope 5.6 climbs comfortably
  • Have experience rappelling
  • Can tie basic knots such as Figure Eight, Clove Hitch, Münter Hitch, and various friction hitches
  • Have experience placing artificial gear and building anchors for top roping

Climbers who have already taken our self rescue training or mastered the basics elsewhere can also join day two of this program as ongoing education for $200 (when space available). Climbers who elect to take just day two of the program for ongoing education must be able to effectively perform all of the course pre-requisites above and can perform the following:

  • Lock off an aperture type belay device
  • Complete a basic load transfer
  • Ascend a fixed line without the use of mechanical devices
  • Create a basic 3:1 raise using an assisted braking device (GriGri/Cinch) or plaquette device (ATC Guide/Reverso)
  • Release a loaded plaquette device (ATC Guide/Reverso)

For more details, see the complete course listing here.