The Guides’ Beta: North Ridge, Table Rock (Linville Gorge)

The North Ridge, Table Rock, 5.5, Grade I

Introduction:

With arguably the best views of any Table Rock climb, the North Ridge is a beginner route, yet engaging for 5.5. While not the longest climb on Table Rock at just under 300’, this route is aesthetic, clean, and incorporates a variety of climbing styles that have made this climb one that I always love to return to.

I recommend getting Avenza Maps and downloading the Linville Gorge Wilderness map to help with parking and general orienteering in the gorge.

History of North Ridge:

The North Ridge was first climbed by Bob Gillespie and Bob Mitchell in 1970. The two climbers were key figures during the “golden era” of first ascents in North Carolina, and Bob Gillespie was on the first ascent team of The Nose of Looking Glass four years earlier. Check out the Carolina Climbing Museum for interviews with both Gillespie and Mitchell.

Best Season to Climb North Ridge:

Springtime to Fall are likely the best times to climb this route. The climb is technically Northeast facing, so you can expect to have sun in the morning and shade in the early afternoon. At close to 4,000’, it is possible to enjoy climbing this route in the Summer, but the hike in will certainly still get you sweating! As with most of WNC, thunderstorms are a common occurrence in the afternoons during the late spring/summer, so be aware.

The Approach:

Finding the base of the route is likely to be your crux, so hopefully these directions will save you some heartache and ‘schwakin! Generally, the most popular and easiest approach to the North Ridge is from the Table Rock parking area. However at the time of writing this, the parking area is closed due to damage from hurricane Helene.

Regardless, here are two different approaches to get to other base of the route.

1. Table Rock Parking Area:

From the Table Rock parking area, head north on the MST (Mountains to Sea Trail). It is possible after about 5-10 min to cut right onto a climbers trail that takes you to the South End and East Face, but with recent addition/improvement of a trail that hikes around the north facing aspect of Table Rock, I recommend continuing on the MST for another 20 or so minutes until you come to a sign that points right to the Table Rock Summit. Continue left on the MST trail for another minute until you reach an opportunity to stay straight on MST or turn right up a set of rocky stairs. Hike right and up to reach the North Ridge (pictured below). See below for the remainder of directions.

2. Table Rock Gap Trail:

From the parking area (same trailhead for the Spence Ridge Trail), hike south for a mellow 0.4 miles until the trail comes to an open campsite area and intersection. Stay right, continuing up a set of wide stairs to continue on the MST (Mountains to Sea Trail). Hike for another 30-45 minutes until you come to a section that either splits left up a set of rocky stairs or right to stay on the MST. Take the stairs on the left (pictured below) to continue to the North Ridge base.

From the rocky stairs off of the MST, continue up, gradually approaching the rock face of Table Rock. Continue another 10 minutes, passing a large split between two different faces of Table Rock. (This gully is called Devils Cellar, and it is possible to 3rd/4th class scramble up to the top of this feature, putting you near the summit of Table Rock). Hike another minute further to reach a small offshoot on the trail on the right (pictured below). 2nd class this very short portion to reach the base of the climb.

If you reach a rock face directly in front of the trail with a few bolts on it, you’ve gone a bit too far!

The Route:

Pitch 1:

There are two different ways to climb this pitch. Either option technically goes at 5.5, but I would rate it closer to 5.6. I’ll be describing the typical route in this guide. Climb up the easy corner. Once the corner starts leaning back slightly, you can place a Black Diamond (BD) 0.3 in the vertical crack on your right, just below a good handhold in the same crack.

After pulling the crux, step right onto a ledge with a good stance below a section of white rock. Before tackling the second crux, I place a green #6 Mastercam (BD 1) on a horizontal to protect the next moves. Clip the gear short to avoid hitting the ledge if you were to fall here.

Pull the second crux, and then either belay here or combine this with the second pitch. I prefer to belay here if communication is a concern with my partner, or if they may struggle through this section. I use BD 0.4-0.5 sized cams at this belay. There is also a prefect rock thread just below this gear if you want to avoid using up your gear.

Pitch 2:

Continue up the crack on easier ground, placing medium to larger sized gear where you can. The climb finishes with some easy slabbing to a two bolt anchor. Belay here with a fantastic view of the gorge.

Pitch 3:

From the bolted belay, climb the clean, white vertical crack above the anchor. The crux gear here is a red #4 Mastercam (0.5 BD) in a pod just below a good handhold.

Again, clip this gear short to keep you from hitting your partner on the head if you were to slip. Pull the crux, place another small cam in the crack if you wish, and continue upwards on easier terrain until you’re about 10’ below a small roof. Step right onto the marbled, somewhat licheny face. Continue up from here, with a final traverse left just below the ledge. The last moves are somewhat insecure, so another red #4 Mastercam (BD 0.5) carefully placed in a horizontal can make these moves feel a bit better.

Once on the belay ledge, there is a horizontal crack about 10’ back from the edge, just before you begin climbing the 4th pitch. I use a BD 0.3, 0.4, and a green #6 Mastercam (1 BD) for this anchor, extending out my master point so I can stand on the cliff edge for better communication with my partner.

Pitch 4:

Scamper up the broken series of ledges, staying right for a majority of the way. Keep your second in mind when placing gear. Towards the end of the pitch there will be some clearly stepped-on moss that leads left. Walk out left, and pull the one 5.5 move on the whole pitch. From here I like to build an anchor in a horizontal crack, about 10’ up and to the right of a broken off metal pole in the ground.

Once you bring your partner up, continue up the climber’s path to the top of the route and the summit of Table Rock.

There is one final 5.4 move with no risk of falling down the mountain. Use a spotter or help each other past this last section if you need to. From here scramble another 20’ to the top of Table Rock to complete the climb.

Descent from North Ridge:

From the top of the mountain, continue south (the same direction you’re facing when you top out) through a faint trail.

You’ll then see the remnants of a small building. Continue straight to take the descent path down from Table Rock. As you wind your way down, you’ll see a trail on your right that takes you to devil cellar. Continue left down the trail until you get to the MST trail. Either go left to continue back to the parking area or right to return to Table Rock Gap trail.

Fun Fact: While the film The Last of the Mohicans is well known to be shot at Chimney Rock State Park, the finial three minutes or so of the film were shot on the summit of Table Rock!

Read more from our Guides’ Beta series here.

Will Payne
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor