The Guides’ Beta: Rattlesnake Crack – An Obscure Classic

Rattlesnake Crack AKA Judicial Review, at John Rock, 5.9 Grade II 320’

Introduction:

John Rock…  an area that sits in the shadows of Looking Glass and Cedar Rock. Though John Rock often gets overlooked, it’s home to awesome routes that can feel quite adventurous. Tucked into the far side of John Rock is Rattlesnake Crack, one of the best moderate cracks in all of Pisgah. Cracks as long and splitter as pitch 2 are pretty hard to come by in North Carolina. The climbing, secluded area, and epic views make this route a Pisgah classic.

The History:

Rattlesnake Crack was established by Peter Young and Wayne Watkins, ground up in the early 80s. The route was originally named Judicial Review. However, over the years, names and routes got confused and another route to the left shared the same name. This eventually led to folks referring to it as Rattlesnake Crack, which makes sense when you look back down from the top of the crack. Go get a copy of Southern Pisgah Rock & Ice to read history about John Rock and its surrounding areas, and your purchase supports the Carolina Climbers Coalition!

The Season:

John Rock can be climbed year-round but the best times to climb are spring and fall. You can beat the sun in the summer months with an early morning start as well. John Rock has a NW aspect which allows for morning shade and afternoon sun starting around noon. Much like other Pisgah areas, afternoon thunderstorms are very common in the summer so be sure to watch the weather. It’s also pretty common to run into snakes throughout the summer months, so keep an eye out. Winter mornings can be quite cold on the face due to its aspect, but afternoon sun will definitely warm things up.

The Approach:

The approach to John Rock starts out of the fish hatchery parking lot located on FS 475. This is a short but steep approach that packs a punch in 0.7 miles with ~500 feet of elevation gain. On the hatchery side of the parking lot, cross the gated bridge and head right on the Cat Gap Loop Trail. Follow this for ~0.2 miles keeping an eye out on your left for the approach trail, located right next to a small downed tree. If you hit the creek you’ve walked just past it. Follow this trail steeply up hill to the base of the wall. Once at the base, continue right over some boulders following the trail. After a few minutes, start looking up at the rock to spot the obvious crack of P2 through the trees. P1 starts just below and right of the tree island.

The Rack:

For Rattlesnake Crack, I like to bring a single set of cams 0.3 to 3 (Black Diamond sizes) with triples from 0.75 to 2 and double 3s. I have climbed this with just doubles, but I find it way easier to just bring 3 extra cams instead of bumping cams the whole time. Stoppers are not very useful on this route. You can definitely bring tricams if that’s your thing, but I don’t find them necessary.

The Route:

Pitch 1: 5.5R 80′

This pitch is the entrance fee. It’s mellow climbing but exciting for both leader and follower due to limited gear and its traversing nature. The trick to this pitch is following the feet. Start this pitch just below and right of the tree island. Climb unprotected up to the island, once in the middle head straight up on good feet to find your first piece of pro, a #1. From here continue left and up following the feet and keeping an eye out for a finger sized cam; this will be your last piece of pro. Once you’ve placed your final pro you have a couple options: head straight towards the anchors on thinner moves to the ledge or step down and traverse left on good feet until directly under the anchors before heading up. As the leader both options are heady, but as the follower I recommend the second option. Pitch finished at bolted anchors. If you want some added spice, there are 5.8R and 5.9R options for a direct start as well.

Pitch 2: 5.9+ 100′

This is the money pitch! Welcome to one of the longest moderate cracks in Pisgah. The crux hits you quick, with some hard moves to get established in the crack. Be sure to get a cam in quickly, as that will be the only thing keeping you off the ledge. You will find great jams for the entirety of this pitch. Triples 0.75 to 2 and double 3s sew this pitch up. Back cleaning and bumping cams are also a great tactic on this pitch. Gear belay in the crack before it peters away, pay attention for hollow rock and be sure to save a some cams in the 0.5 to 1 range. Another option, which I enjoy, is continuing and linking into pitch 3 for one mega 180’ pitch to the bolted anchor. Be aware that for this option, if there’s any chance your follower will fall on the crux start I do not recommend it. With that much rope in the system, rope stretch will surely lead to a ledge fall for your second- check out this blog post to read more about managing for rope stretch. Be smart and know your party’s abilities.

Pitch 3: 5.8 80′

From the belay, continue up the crack as it disappears to a lone bolt on the slab above you. Singles in hand-sized pieces protect the end of the crack quite well. Clip the bolt and finish up some eyebrows to a huge ledge with bolted anchors.

Pitch 4: 5.8 70′

From the bolted anchors, move your belay left onto the tree island and look up to find the start of this pitch.  This pitch is funky eyebrow grooving that feels hard for the grade when onsighting. There are three bolts on this pitch and good gear in between. Pull some juggy moves and stretch to clip the first bolt. Commit to the groove and find some gear before the second bolt, I find a 0.5 and 0.2 basket nice to keep you of the ledge in case you fall. Continue up the awkward groove clipping bolts and looking for gear. I find the crux to be pulling the final bulge near the top of the pitch. There is good gear here but the slopers are mean. Finish at bolted anchors left of the groove, or continue to the trees.

The Descent:

Double 60m ropes or single rope and a tag line are required to rap the route. The first rap from the top chains is a single rope rappel back to the trees you belayed from, so it’s nice to leave your second rope here before starting the last pitch. Very carefully scramble back right to the chains on top of pitch 3. This is your double rope rappel back to the end of pitch one. Be careful pulling your rope here as it can get stuck in the pitch 2 crack. The final rap is another single rope rappel back to the ground. Walking off the route is also possible if you only want to bring one rope. A short bushwhack through the trees will lead you to the John Rock trail. Head left on the trail passing the hiker’s overlook and it’s about 2.2 miles back to the parking lot. I find the walk off to be quite tedious as you’ll need to climb with full packs, but to each their own.

Final Remarks:

Rattlesnake Crack is a true classic with a little bit of everything. Heady eyebrows, splitter crack climbing, and funky grooving are what it’s all about. In my opinion, it’s one of the more underappreciated classics in the area, but this is the nature of John Rock. Check it out for yourself and let us know what you think!

Chayce Torres
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor, Wilderness First Responder