AMGA SPI Assessment

FULL

Single Pitch Instructor Assessment

The Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Assessment is a two-day exam that is required to become an American Mountain Guides Association Certified Single Pitch Instructor. The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).You do not need first aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.

You meet the SPI Assessment prerequisites if you have completed the following:

  • You are a current member of the AMGA;
  • You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course;
  • You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types;
  • You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes; and
  • You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.

Number on Assessment: Maximum of 6:1 client to instructor ratio

Assessment length: Two days

Cost: $400

Please note that you MUST be a member of the AMGA prior to enrolling. Click here to join.

About the Instructor: A native North Carolinian, Wes returns to Fox Mountain Guides after an extensive sojourn in the American West. Guiding and climbing for over 20 years, Wes spent the last five years working full time for the Colorado Mountain School, but the crags and walls of the Southeast have always been Wes’ home.

Having worked extensively in the Rockies on rock, ice, and snow, and teaching AMGA Single Pitch Instructor programs from coast to coast, Wes returns to his core passion in North Carolina. He creates learning environments where everyone can be successful and fulfill their potential in the mountains.

Wes’ clients and student unanimously enjoy his fun-loving personality, they engage his depth of knowledge, and invariably form lifelong friendships and partnerships.

Wes’ peers know him as a true guide’s guide, steady and strong in the mountains. He is a mentor to his colleagues with the same earnestness as his clients and students. Wes helps everyone around him achieve their dreams in climbing.

Wes has the following guiding credentials: AMGA Rock Guide, AMGA Apprentice Alpine Guide, AMGA Ice instructor Course, AMGA SPI provider, LNT Master Educator, AIARE Avalanche Course Provider, Wilderness First Responder.

COURSE

Mountaineering 101: Mountaineering Fundamentals

Our New Hampshire Course is a skills packed three day program designed to improve your knowledge and skills for winter mountaineering objectives. This program is based in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Participants will spend at least one night camping in the mountains. In this program we will cover fast and light movement tactics and technical systems, putting together objectives that cover thousands of feet of terrain, teaching you that efficiency is one of your greatest risk management tools in the big mountains.

This course is perfect for those seeking to tackle alpine and mountaineering objectives and gain a solid foundation in mountaineering skills.

Topics Covered:

  • Planning, preparation, and equipment selection
  • Winter camping skills
  • Mountain weather interpretation
  • Risk management
  • Basic snow and ice climbing techniques
  • Mountain navigation and route finding
  • Glacier travel techniques and crevasse rescue

For additional information, see the full course description here.

Ice Climbing 101: Learn to Ice Climb

Have you been wanting try ice climbing? Our Ice Climbing 101 course is the ideal way to immerse yourself for two days on an in-depth skills course aimed at teaching you a solid foundation in ice climbing. This course is perfect for the novice ice climber or absolute beginning climber (we have candidates on this course who have never rock climbed ). This course is based in North Conway, NH.

Topics Covered:

  • Two days of stellar ice climbing at different New Hampshire locations
  • Equipment and clothing for ice climbing
  • Nutrition for ice climbers
  • Ice evaluation, hazard recognition, and safety precautions for ice climbers
  • Efficient ice climbing techniques (starting with low angle and moving onto steep ice)
  • Belaying and communication
  • Introduction to placing ice protection and anchors

For more details, see the full course description here.

AMGA SPI Course

The SPI Course is an instructor training course for current, proficient and active rock climbers and for climbing instructors who currently teach rock climbing who wish to gain the Single Pitch Instructor Certification.

SPI Terrain Guidelines

The SPI will be able to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. Single Pitch Instructors supervise and teach climbing at any single pitch cliff, working at the base or from the top. They can work at sites where the anchors are accessed by non technical terrain and also by leading. For the purpose of the SPI Program a single pitch climb is one which:

  • Is climbed without intermediate belays
  • presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating

You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:

  • Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
  • Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course. Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
  • Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
  • Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).
  • Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.

To gain the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Certification you must complete the three day AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course and separate two day Single Pitch Instructor Assessment.

 

Details and Pricing

Number on course: Maximum of 6:1 client to instructor ratio
Course length: Three days
Cost: $600

 

Please note that you MUST be a member of the AMGA prior to enrolling. Click here to join.

 

Click here more information on the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor program.

 

Rock Climbing 402 – Rock Climbing Self Rescue

The Rock Climbing Self Rescue Course teaches skills every climber who ties into a rope should know: basic competency in risk management, problem avoidance, and self rescue skills. This course emphasizes reducing the risks in the first place to reduce the chance of ever having to use the rescue skills you will learn in the course.

We will teach you the most efficient systems and won’t flood you with over-complicated, useless systems. All these skills are useful in everyday climbing, and it’s amazing how much speed and efficiency is gained from having these skills “dialed.” Self rescue is a topic that all climbers should be skilled in for themselves and the people they climb with.

Topics Covered:

Day One

  • Planning, preparation, equipment, and communication
  • Problem avoidance: reducing the risks in the first place
  • Basic rescue knots, hitches, and tie offs
  • Load transfers, the building blocks for all rope rescue techniques
  • Raising systems 101: a detailed look at the basic physics behind raising systems, mechanical advantage raises, and assisted raises (2:1, 3:1, 3:1 assisted, 5:1, and 6:1)
  • Rescuing and assisting the second: raises, lowers and counterbalanced lowers
  • Ascending a fixed and counterbalanced rope
  • Correct techniques for using plaquette devices in climbing and self rescue applications (ATC Guide/Reverso)

Day Two

  • Rescuing the injured leader in the single and multi-pitch environment
  • Weighted transitions (rappelling multiple pitches with an unconscious climber)
  • Counterbalanced and tandem rappels
  • Effective knot passes on rappels and lowers

Course Prerequisites:

Applicants must have taken one of our Foundation Level courses or

  • Can top rope 5.6 climbs comfortably
  • Have experience rappelling
  • Can tie basic knots such as Figure Eight, Clove Hitch, Münter Hitch, and various friction hitches
  • Have experience placing artificial gear and building anchors for top roping

Climbers who have already taken our self rescue training or mastered the basics elsewhere can also join day two of this program as ongoing education for just $150 (when space available). Climbers who elect to take just day two of the program for ongoing education must be able to effectively perform all of the course pre-requisites above and can perform the following:

  • Lock off an aperture type belay device
  • Complete a basic load transfer
  • Ascend a fixed line without the use of mechanical devices
  • Create a basic 3:1 raise using an assisted braking device (GriGri/Cinch) or plaquette device (ATC Guide/Reverso)
  • Release a loaded plaquette device (ATC Guide/Reverso)

For more details, see the complete course listing here.

Rock Climbing 401 – Multi-pitch Lead Climbing

The two-day Multi-pitch Lead Climbing Course is aimed at any climber who is currently climbing multi-pitch and wants to refine their skills or a climber leading single pitch climbs who wants to step into the world of multi-pitch climbing. The course looks at the skills taught to guides and covers a myriad of techniques aimed at making you a more efficient and more competent multi-pitch climber. The course will also get some great climbs in too!

 

  • The key skill: TRANSITIONS, moving from leader to belaying the second and back to leader (or swapping leads) quickly
  • Guide book/topo interpretation and route finding skills
  • Anchor considerations in multi-pitch terrain
  • Belay station management, considerations and tricks to speed things up
  • Belaying options: plates, locking devices and hitches. Redirects, direct and indirect belays
  • Rope management and working with the single rope
  • Dealing with terrain problems such as traverses, roofs, arêtes, climbing and protecting these features for the leader and second
  • Climbing equipment selection: the climbing rack and extra equipment that should be carried on a multi-pitch climb
  • Multi-pitch rappelling considerations

For additional details and pricing see full course listing here.

Ice Climbing 101: Learn to Ice Climb

Have you been wanting try ice climbing? Our Ice Climbing 101 course is the ideal way to immerse yourself for two days on an in-depth skills course aimed at teaching you a solid foundation in ice climbing. This course is perfect for the novice ice climber or absolute beginning climber (we have candidates on this course who have never rock climbed ). This course is based in North Conway, NH.

Topics Covered:

  • Two days of stellar ice climbing at different New Hampshire locations
  • Equipment and clothing for ice climbing
  • Nutrition for ice climbers
  • Ice evaluation, hazard recognition, and safety precautions for ice climbers
  • Efficient ice climbing techniques (starting with low angle and moving onto steep ice)
  • Belaying and communication
  • Introduction to placing ice protection and anchors

For more details, see the full course description here.

Advanced Ice Climbing: Ice Lead Climbing

Are you ready to take your ice climbing skills to the next level and learn to lead ice climbs? Our Advanced Ice Climbing course is perfect for climbers with a solid background in the fundamentals of ice climbing and is particularly well suited for those who have taken our Ice 101 and 201 courses.

This intensive, two-day course is based in North Conway, New Hampshire.  We jump right in on the first day, covering proper screw placements, ice climbing anchors, and leading techniques. Students will mock lead routes of increasing difficulty throughout the weekend, and those who are ready will get some leads under their belts as well.

For more details, see the full course description here.

Ice Climbing 201: Multi-pitch Ice Climbing

The Ice Climbing 201 Course is designed for climbers who have previous ice climbing experience or candidates that have just completed the Ice Climbing 101 Course  In this course we will look at the more advanced topics of climbing steep, sustained ice and climbing multi-pitch routes. Over the two days we will climb harder routes than the Ice Climbing 101 Course and also complete multi-pitch climbs on day 2.

This course is based in North Conway, NH.

Topics Covered:

  • Advanced movement techniques for climbing steep, sustained ice routes
  • Multi-pitch ice climbing
  • Rappelling multi-pitch ice routes and V & A Threads
  • Two days of stellar ice climbing at different NH locations!

For more details, see full course description here.