Plus Clipping: How to Manage Risk in Multi-pitch Climbing

June 23, 2023 fmg-adminFundamentals Fridays Guides' Tech Tips Rock Climbing

A factor 2 fall is a concern unique to multi-pitch climbing and is discussed during our Rock 401 course. This situation is present when the leader leaves the anchor and falls before placing gear. The scenario creates the highest possible forces an anchor can see and can lead to a host of problems. In this post we will discuss how to calculate fall factors and one solution to minimize high fall factors.

What is Fall Factor?

Fall factor is the ratio of distance fallen to amount of rope out. The largest possible fall factor is 2, which creates hazards for the team and the anchor due to amount of force generated. This would occur if the climber fell before placing any gear. Ex: A 10ft fall on 5ft of rope-10/5 is 2; we know that as a FF of 2.  Larger forces on less rope puts more resultant force onto the belayer. This is a concern when there is hard climbing right off the belay. It only takes 3-4 kN to displace a belayer; and at a cramped stance, that displacement can get violent – violent enough to cause them to lose control of the brake strand of rope (due to their displacement into the rock).

Solving for High Fall Factors

Introducing more rope into the system can alleviate this problem – it’ll reduce the fall factor, protect the belayer and anchor, and give the fallen climber a softer catch. I typically introduce rope through a technique called “plus clipping”. It’s similar to the idea of stick clipping in a single pitch sport climbing, something climbers are likely familiar with.

If I’m worried about high fall factors leaving an anchor, I clip it and continue climbing into the next pitch.  I’ll keep climbing until I can get a good piece/pieces of protection in(8-12 ft or so, if possible).  I’ll then downclimb/lower back to the belay station, build my anchor, and attach myself as usual (clove hitch).  When it’s time for me to lead the next pitch, I’ll go back on belay, but I now have a top rope for the first 8-12 feet of the next pitch.  If I fall, I’ve reduced force on the belayer, me, and the gear in the system.  

Other Benefits of Plus Clipping

-if it’s tricky, i can leave my pack at the anchor to pull those moves with tons of rope in the systems, rehearsing the moves so I can send with my lead pack on.

– I can omit clipping a leg of the anchor, a strategy people sometimes use to avoid factoring the anchor. I typically try to avoid doing this, and I see a lot of people overuse this technique. Remember that belayer displacement? Belayers are likely to be displaced right into that clipped leg of the anchor, potentially defeating the belay device, and putting significant force on a portion of the anchor. Don’t we use master points for a reason?  A different system like the fixed point lead (banshee) belay is another solution, yet requires more knowledge and skill to practice.

 Remember, climbing is dangerous. Even on a good day, things go wrong. Place good gear, practice good rope management and stance organization, and practice this down low before you commit to it up high.

Dan Riethmuller, AMGA Apprentice Rock and Alpine Guide and Certified Ice Instructor